My Sunday Morning Walks

Hey folks,

I thought I would take this blog post to talk about a small weekly ritual I've developed since my arrival in Buenos Aires. I believe in some of my previous posts I have alluded to Porteño tendency toward a night owl existence. Indeed the day doesn't really begin until the workday is over at about 6 or 7 at night.

I recall cooking dinner one night in the shared apartment I lived in several months ago and one of the other tenants came in and began cooking as well. It was 7 o'clock which to me seemed very early for him to be cooking dinner so I asked him, "es muy temprano para vos a cocinar la cena" ("it's very early for you to be cooking dinner."). To which he replied "estoy cocinando almuerzo" ("I'm cooking lunch"). While that isn't word for word how the conversation went down, it is the same message. Many people don't wake up until 10 or 11 in the morning, even later on the weekends, which means for a person who values their mornings and time in solitude, Sunday morning walks became a favorite weekly pastime for me.

University of Buenos Aires buildings visible on my way through Once. 

A map of the various neighborhoods in Buenos Aires. You can see Barrio Once next to Abasto.

(Image courtesy of http://www.reservas.net/alojamiento_hoteles/buenosaires_neighborhoodszones.htm)

My destination is the local Christian Science church where I attend services every morning. The church is located in between the neighborhoods of Once and Abasto, about 2.5 kilometers from my apartment, and a leisurely 35 minute walk.

This building looks like it belongs at Angkor Wat.

I've long been fascinated by the Art Nouveau style architecture prevalent throughout the city. 

I don't know why I like Once so much. There is trash everywhere and avoiding the doggy-doo is almost impossible, even with my eyes glued to the sidewalk. It may have to do with the Sunday morning atmosphere. The neighborhood itself is rather gritty, with old, decaying cement buildings, a residential atmosphere that brings to mind a "true" Porteño culture, and a large Jewish population who are always out and actively celebrating the Sabbath. I think what draws me to the neighborhood is it's genuine atmosphere. It doesn't try to pass off as something it isn't. The rough edges aren't hidden away behind a Façade, and no attempts are made to obscure the true image of the neighborhood. 

Fresh-baked Medialunas awaiting hungry customers at a local cafe.

I stumbled across this building while exploring. It looks to be in the Abasto neighborhood.

A common sight in Buenos Aires are buildings like this. You can see where a stairwell once existed by the formations in the brick.

A quiet side street with a mural of Carlos Gardel, the famed Tango singer.

Some peculiar street art reminiscent of both Gauguin and Japanese Ukiyo-e prints. 

Carlos, looking happy as always : )

This was a rather interesting sight. I'm not quite sure what to make of the car but it could easily belong in a 4th of July parade.

mmm, postres at a confiteria ready for the eating.

In Once there is no "glamour", no deceptive trappings of modernity. A simple walk through Recoleta, or Barrio Norte (where my apartment is located), and you will encounter all the current examples of modern "perfection": Billboards advertising the perfection of Fernet + coke, all the local, polished ice cream chains with their glittering interiors, dozens of ritzy tourist hotels, and restaurants catering to the tourist. Let's not even begin with Puerto Madero, a new and modern neighborhood in Buenos Aires that could be located anywhere in the world it is so deprived of a history or culture. In Once no attempts are made to cater. It is simply business as usual without desire to impress or to awe. This might be why I can look beyond the ugly cement edifices and the unwashed streets. The neighborhood truthfully lives in its traditions. The shabby storefronts, the unkempt pizza and pasta parlors, the composed buildings, and the dignified confiterias all represent the long and nonfrivolous heritage of a historic barrio. Once is truly Once, with no ambition to be anything but.