Tuesday, April 22, 2014

Tandil: Una epoca de queso y la venganza del chorizo (A cheese epic and the revenge of the chorizo sausage)

This past weekend I embarked with some wonderful friends on an adventurous camping expedition to the small city of Tandil, located several hundred kilometers south of Buenos Aires. I was particularly excited about this expedition because it would mark the farthest distance I've traveled outside Buenos Aires since I arrived here.

Three of us, Luis, Runi, and I, left the capital early friday morning while the other two would join us the following day. The three of us had a pleasant coffee and mate fueled drive through the countryside on our way to the epoca of queso, Tandil.  We stopped at a gas station for a rest and a quick lunch, but otherwise we drove continuously, arriving in Tandil at about 2 in the afternoon.

The view from the camp
Finding a place to camp turned out to be much easier than we thought, and a friendly local tour guide at the casa de turismo gave us a map and pointed out all the best spots. We decided to check out a place located a little outside the city, and when we arrived we were not disappointed. The land itself had been converted to a place of prayer where Catholics could pay their respects, and a little shrine to the Virgen of Lourdes had been erected within the rock. The land was also situated on a small, rocky hill, with beautiful views on all sides of the farms and fields, carrying the wind in soft, waving ripples across the landscape.

We organized where we could camp with the landowners and spent the first day just enjoying the tranquility of the countryside. It is an amazing feeling to go from being surrounded by buildings, traffic, and constant noise, to the complete calm and sounds of nature in the country. Later in the evening we gazed at the milky way and did meditation as a giant moon rose above the hill, bringing a pale blue glow to the landscape. We then attended to the fire, cooked chorizo, and told stories until late into the evening.

The next morning we picked up our other two compatriates, Zehan and Claudia, from the bus station, and we spent the day relaxing in the country, staring at the cows, listening to good music and cowbells, but most of all enjoying each other's company. Later in the afternoon we went into town. Tandil itself is a quiet and peaceful little town, unexciting for those accustomed to big cities and constant activity, but for those of us who need moments of solitude Tandil is like a calm, slow, breath of fresh air. There is little traffic, even when it is busy, and many of the roads are made of cobblestone. The pace of life is remarkably slower and not forced to a frenetic pace as is the case in the big cities.

A Catholic pilgrimmage site in Tandil
We toured a local feria and watched a talented local performer doing circus stunts, then we decided to buy more chorizo and return to the campsite for dinner. A second friendly, fire and chorizo filled evening passed us by, and we woke up on Sunday not feeling a little tired and dirty from all the camping, but just as enthusiastic to have a great final day in the country. We spent much of the day enjoying the sunny and cool autumn air, before finally deciding to pack up and go into Tandil one last time.

Zehan playing Anita by the fire
Our final day in Tandil was marked by a visit to Epoca de Queso, a cheese and sausage store and restaurant. The place also seemed to be a museum of sorts because it was full of old and fascinating artifacts. We enjoyed poking around for half an hour before sitting down to a generous picada of cheese and sausage and a cheese fondue.

Tandil is a wonderful place to visit for those wishing to escape to a slower, more relaxed place. The countryside is beautiful and the town has many cultural attractions to keep you occupied. The chorizo and cheeses are both excellent, but beware of eating too many, sometimes they'll stick to your waist and refuse to leave. : )

But in all seriousness the most important part of the trip for me, and what I am most grateful for, are the experiences shared with a loving group of friends. Indeed for me, these are the memories that will tie the trip together into a beautiful narrative upon which I can look back and smile for years to come. These are the types of experiences we live for.

In sum, visit Tandil! But beware of the hapless sausages searching for revenge, and go with a loving group of friends!

Runi, Luis, me, and Claudia
Zehan's sketch
No, it's not an album cover...
but it could be!






 

     

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