A Mountain Trek

Sunrise on the mountains

Dos Quebradas is ringed by mountains checkered with patches of plantains and coffee that hug the steep hillsides. Many of the residents in the neighborhood where I am staying enjoy trekking into the mountains early in the morning for the fresh air and the exercise.

Posing in front of the mountain view.

Starting at five in the morning, a group of seven of us  began our trek out from the city, across the main thoroughfares that at this time had minimal traffic, and onto the rocky road that led up the mountainside. The air changed dramatically as we climbed, and the noise from the city died away as the houses thinned away and we were left with a treelined road, dotted with peasant houses and the occasional finca (large, ranch-style homes in the country).


As we ascended, we took occasional breaks to admire the views of the mountains leading into the Andes Cordillera, and the peak of the Nevado del Ruiz, one of a string of active volcanos. From our view on the mountain we could see the volcanic giant with smoke rising from its crater. In 1985 the Nevado de Ruiz erupted, spewing ash and lava and causing massive mudslides that covered the town of Armero, killing more than twenty thousand in what has become known as the Tragedia de Armero.

Everyone relaxing in the clearing at the end of the trek.

We continued our trek up, seeing the occasional motorcyclist descending carefully, and we greeted campesinos along with other trekkers and runners. According to some reports, Colombia is ranked as the happiest country in the world, and this isn't surprising judging by the way strangers are generally greeted with smiles.

After an hour and a half the road ended in a small clearing surrounded by the thick rainforest. A cool mountain stream trickled down into the clearing and we took turns drinking from the pure mountain water and eating bocadillo, a sweet made from the sugar of guayaba, a sweet fruit found throughout Colombia. In the clearing, the air was fresh and rich with oxygen, high above the noise and pollution of the cities below.


On our descent we stopped for tinto, Colombian coffee, black with sugar, and cookies, a motorcyclist and a campesino in the typical rubber work boots were also taking coffee and agua panela (hot water with brown sugar).

The mountain stream

Everyone on the descent

We arrived back at the house at 8:00 in the morning, ready to begin the day, though not without a little nap beforehand.

Cheers from Colombia,