A Taste of Home

Hey guys!

I just finished my first week of classes so I've been spending this weekend unwinding. I tasted my first Milanesa today. It consists of either chicken or beef, breaded and fried in shallow oil in a pan. It is absolutely delicious, but I wouldn't want to know the nutrition facts behind it. One of my neighbors in the apartment I am sharing is native Argentine and makes it very frequently. If you're ever in Argentina a Milanesa sandwich with cut greens, sliced tomato, swiss cheese and slasa criollo could make a great snack or even a meal and is often consumed as a snack in between lunch and dinner. Lunch is eaten usually between 1 and 2 and dinner isn't eaten until 9 or 10 at night so something is usually needed to tide the typical Argentine over until dinner rolls around. Click here for more on milanesa and a genuine milanesa recipe with an accompanying video (be prepared to read Spanish or a horrible google English translation).

 The TEFL program I am in is wonderful. The professors are helpful in and outside of class and have created a very supportive environment for becoming successful and competent English teachers. Not only are the professors helpful in class but they are very encouraging and supportive outside of class as well, helping to give us advice on a wide range of topics relating to life in the city. All in all I am enjoying my class tremendously and can only look forward to teaching in January.

As the title of this post attests I am going to talk about a little craving I had this week. It all started with our mock presentations on conducting a basic/low beginner level class. Just as a side note my presentation went very well and the professor actually told us that as a class our presentations were the best she had seen after teaching several dozen groups so I hope that bodes well for our success in the future. Anyways one of my classmates was giving her presentation and the subject was dinner. I must say I'm not sure whether it was the idea or the picture she chose to represent it, but one of her dinner items happened to be pancakes. When she mentioned pancakes and held up the picture of the stack of fluffy, heavy pancakes lathered in syrup and strawberries, visions of pancakes began to flood my mind and I was overcome with the desire to sit down to a heavy meal of American pancakes.

That determination became a reality when I made my first batch of American pancakes abroad. I have to say I improvised a little. I bought flour but I'm not sure what kind and I put in another powder that I was told was baking powder but who knows... I also made do with vegetable oil and a scant amount of butter that I could scrounge from the fridge. I think the highlight for me was the strawberry sauce I found to go with the pancakes. MMMMMMMMM... I love the feeling of eating a heavy meal and just being able to sit it off. That's the American way (Argentine way too I guess but with pizza, asado, milanesa, and empanadas instead of fast food and heavy breakfasts). Here are a few pictures from my pancake endeavor.

Yo empezo!

The first one is complete!

TWO!

FOUR!

SIX!

I have no idea. Eight maybe?

I ate them all though : )

Kyle reporting from the city that knows how to eat well.

BUE for food lovers!

Busy, busy times

Hey folks,

A warm welcome from Argentina for all reading this post. Sorry for such a long delay in writing but, as the post title attests, these are busy, busy times. I can truly say that I have scoured the city in search of the right place for me to stay when December finally roles around. However room hunting down here can be something of a messy and impromptu process and one I don't care to delve into too much. I have also been busy preparing for the TEFL certification course (Teaching English as a Foreign Language) which began yesterday. 

We spent our first day getting to know our fellow classmates and building up a friendly rapport. The teachers are wonderful, friendly, and willing to assist us in every way and my fellow students, there are five of us, hail from England and Austria (I represent the US!). Probably the most exciting part of the day was getting placed into the role of a beginner language student who is just learning a foreign language (In this case Afrikaans) for the first time. 

"Waar wil jy woon?" "Ek wil in die plaateland woon." 

I feel fluent already! Well not quite. The goal of this exercise is to put each of us into the mindset of a beginner student. With this in mind we can better understand how to work with beginner students, what their needs are, and what teaching format is most helpful to them. The course is fairly intensive for the first two weeks as we get through all of the teaching material while the second two weeks will be more flexible with lesson planning and actual teaching taking up most of the time. 

The class is held in the art nouveau era Palacio Barolo. The building is based on Dante's Divine Comedy and the floors of the palace are divided into the different levels of afterlife: hell, purgatory, and heaven. Since we are on the third floor I think that puts us in hell. I hope that isn't symbolic in any way. I have added a photo I took of the top of the beautiful building, although I couldn't get a better shot because there was too much of an angle at street level.

Today, Tuesday the 20th of November (also called 20N here) was a national strike by two of the largest unions in the country. We weren't sure if we were going to have class today and the professors said they would email us if class was canceled. Anyways, class wasn't canceled and while walking to class I saw very few if any signs of protest. They were probably more prominent in other areas of the city and one of the students couldn't make it to class because the trains were shut down but the center of the city was fine. I did notice the supermarket was nearly cleared out of eggs, which means they probably didn't get any in today due to pickets blocking the main access roads into the city. 

On my way to class I discovered a wonderful little coffee and tea shop that pretty much hit home for me. It is difficult enough finding inexpensive and quality coffee or tea down here so finding this place really made my day. I decided to visit the shop with another trainee while we were on break from class. Here are a few photos of my visit to the shop.

TEAPOTS!

Una Cafe Chico

I think now that I have this TEFL course to occupy me my life is beginning to take on a structure and normalcy. This is helping me to stay balanced and occupied throughout the day. Not to mention the professors are wonderful and I thoroughly enjoy the company of my classmates. After two days this has already turned out to be a very rewarding experience and I hope to bring what I learn from this teaching course to my future students, inspiring them to learn English in an active and fun environment. 

Observations of a Foreigner

Hey folks,

I haven't written for a few days, mostly because I'm trying to get my life in order for December. I am busy searching for a more permanent apartment and am also in the process of job hunting so I haven't been out exploring as much as usual. However since I first arrived here I have noticed some very interesting, odd, quirky, and sometimes downright hilarious differences between living here and living in the States.

The first thing I noticed is a difference in timescale. Porteños are rarely ever prompt at returning messages, often it will take three to four days of agonizing waiting to hear from an apartment owner or employer. Which makes it a wonderful surprise when they do respond within a day or two. Another difference in timescale is the way in which stores conduct business. Stores will open and close on their own timescale, there is no 9-5 so much as 10-4, 11-7, 1-9, etc... and since most stores are small and don't have bathrooms, if an employee needs to go they simply close up the shop and head out to the bathroom, or get some lunch, and return an hour later.

One of my favorite things to do when I am buying groceries is to stare enviously at the array of imported goods from America. I reach out, tempted by the bottle of ketchup, but then quickly pull my hand away as I calculate in horror the $10 dollar price tag. The same goes for tabasco, mustard, barbecue sauce, and A1. I have yet to find my favorite, the ever elusive peanut butter, which I think is completely unknown here except I have heard it can be found in China town.

A few more remarks about supermarkets. These are directed at Carrefour, the major supermarket chain in BA. First of all it is impossible to run in, buy a few things, and run out in less than 1/2 an hour. Even though you may have everything you need in 5 minutes the line at checkout stretches on for at least 15 to 20 people. Which means you are standing in line for 20-25 minutes, eyeing the sugar flavored coffee, tempted by the astonishing array of mate varieties, and listening to the same recording over and over again saying, in a man's voice, "Carrefour, esta bueno para vos" (Carrefour, it's good for you (said in a very commercialized and fast male voice). Okay, great. But if I have to listen to that voice thirty, forty or fifty times a day, my "good" thoughts about Carrefour might begin to change.

Another observation is that no matter where you are in the city prices fluctuate relatively independent of whether it is a wealthy neighborhood or not. For instance I just found a 1 kilogram jar of honey for 18 pesos, 2 pesos less then what I paid for a 500g jar of honey in just a slightly more upscale neighborhood.

Now I don't have much experience in American cities so I don't know if this is normal or not but sometimes, when I walk down the street here, I get caught up in the unavoidable downpour of water as someone ten, fifteen, or twenty stories up decides to water their plants. I don't know how to avoid this without having my eyes glued skyward, but I'll continue working on a solution.

Lastly, I decided to do laundry today, and since I had good service at the place I went to before I decided to go there again. To my happy surprise they charged me ten less pesos than they did the first time I went in. I don't know if it's because today is a Wednesday and the last time did laundry was on a Friday, or maybe I get frequent shopper credits, who knows. This mystery made my day.

That's all for now folks,

Kyle reporting his observations... an outsider looking in.

A Busy Weekend

Wow, this weekend flew by. In between searching for a more suitable apartment for December, brushing up my resume/CV and researching the job market, there were a ton of cultural activities happening that could keep anyone going non-stop. A few of these activities I knew about in advance but some I just stumbled upon while exploring the city.

First on my list of things to do was the annual noche de los museos, a cultural event in which more than 180 museums and art spaces throw open their doors for free until two or three in the morning. As one might expect, artistic chaos reigns as people from all walks of life come together by the thousands to participate in this wildly popular event. I had decided ahead of time to hit up the Centro Cultural de Recoleta, a venue located next to the Recoleta cemetery that brings together a wide array of contemporary artists in order to give them access to the public in a professional and safe environment. The walkways and exhibition rooms were jammed with Porteños and a few English speakers like myself, all of us enthusiastic to see the amazing variety of art in CCR's expansive and wonderful facility.

Here are a few of my favorite photos from el Centro Cultural de Recoleta

I can't help but love the big feet.

I had to snap a quick photo of this awesome frog.

Very colorful!

I loved the Japanese influences in this one.

 This last one has some interesting street art. You see art like this all the time in San Telmo, one of the neighborhoods in Bs. As.

So that was Saturday night. Sunday I decided to return to San Telmo for the first time since I left the hostel and to experience La Feria de San Telmo (the San Telmo fair), a massive fair that runs for a good 10 blocks down Avenida Defensa and culminates in the historic Plaza Dorrego. This fair includes a large number of street performers, artists, and vendors marketing everything from mate gourds, to jewelry, to beautifully colored scarves and sweaters. While I was there I witnessed live tango performances, a Jack Sparrow lookalike, lots of creatively dressed up people, and some old time BA charm. 

Here are a few pictures just to get a sense of the size of this fair. 

The fair stretches on as far as the eye can see.

Can anyone spot the Jack Sparrow lookalike?

Apart from seeing la Feria, I made it a goal of mine to take as many photos of the street art in San Telmo as I could. Street art in Bs. As. is huge and brings an added dimension and depth to the city streets. I have posted a few of my favorite works that I had seen before, along with some recent finds I discovered while exploring San Telmo today. For more info on the street art scene in BA check out these two links. graffitimundo 

http://www.buenosairesstreetart.com/

Beautiful depiction of Evita.

I found this one on my second or third day in Bs. As. It is located in a school yard in San Telmo.

Hmmm, aliens?

I love exploring Buenos Aires. You never know what you will see or what activities are going on throughout the city. Sometimes the best way to get involved in something is to just walk around. For instance today I happened upon a parade/reenactment that I think was in celebration of San Martin, although after doing a little research I couldn't find out exactly what it was. On my way back from the fair I saw a man dressed in clothing that looked to be from the 17th or 18th century. I decided to follow him and look where I ended up.

Soldiers practicing before the parade.

Very distinguished gentlemen.

Another fun filled weekend wraps up in lively Buenos Aires. Once again a rich culture mixed with the vibrant city life have come together to produce an active, fun, and busy weekend. With museums open at all hours, vendors displaying their wares, and artists exhibiting their talents, Bs. As. has much to offer for anyone looking to have an experience rarely found elsewhere. 

Thanks to all who enjoy keeping up with my travels and support my endeavors in this wonderful city. 

Kyle, running through a maze of artwork and vendor stalls in the heart of Bs. As.  

A Few Mild Irritations

It rained today. No, that has nothing to do with the title of this post. The rain was actually quite welcome as the summertime heat cranks up through November and December. But the rain did keep me indoors for much of the day and forced me to reflect on a few of the challenges confronting Bs. As., how they have affected me, and how I knew little to nothing about them until I settled in for about a week or so.

WARNING! For all of you looking for a comfortable read that will sit well please AVOID this post (or at least the next few paragraphs). I am about to delve into one of the dirtiest and unsettling problems confronting Bs. As. citizens every day. If you feel at all uncomfortable about what I write below please skip to my section on the currency problem further down the page.

The first city-wide problem I encountered is the excessive amounts of dog excrement in parks, on sidewalks,  and in the streets. One must maintain constant vigilance at all times for fear of encountering the squishy on the soles of one's shoes. No, I don't want to satirize this crisis at all but it really is difficult to emphasize just how much excrement there is. In fact news articles, online forums, and expat blogs have all shed light on this issue, which is not only detrimental to the health of Porteños (natives of BA), it also has a negative impact on tourism and foreign perceptions of the city. 

One article, written by Natalie Schachar, puts the official estimate at about 30,000 tons of dog excrement a day making its way onto the streets. This problem seems to be perpetuated by a lack of government enforcement of ordinance and a tragedy of the commons mentality in which dog walkers have created a societal structure within which it is the accepted norm to leave the feces where it falls. I have also noticed too that dog walking is a profession for some, and that it is not uncommon to see one person walking six, seven or even ten dogs at one time. Surely we can't expect that person to be able to pick up everything those dogs leave behind. I know I have difficulty just walking three dogs on leashes, let alone five or ten. In the end the solution will probably have to come from greater government enforcement, more initiatives (e.g. free doggie bags, warning signs, etc...), and the Porteños own desire to see a cleaner excrement free city. 

Image from the article by Natalie Schachar. Walking many dogs at once is typical in Bs. As. and seems to be a profession for some Porteños. 

Here is a link to the article on this crisis. http://www.theatlanticcities.com/arts-and-lifestyle/2012/10/doody-calls-will-buenos-aires-ever-learn-pick-its-poo/3458/

A second issue I encountered, and one arguably less dirty, is that of currency exchange (money can be quite dirty sometimes). Argentina has a long a tumultuous history when it comes to currency, and within the last few decades a strong, robust, Argentine currency has been virtually non-existent. If I could have brought one thing with me from the States it would be a large wad of crisp USD (Yes crisp. Apparently there is a counterfeit problem here and if the bills aren't new they will often not be accepted). 

Image courtesy of the Christian Science Monitor

Due to weak confidence in the Argentine peso and tight government regulations and restrictions on USD, there are actually two exchange rates. There is the official rate which is roughly 1 USD to 4.75 AR (No one uses this rate except banks and the government, neither of which allow for the withdrawal of USD. This was a surprise to me when I found I could not withdraw dollars from ATMs). There is also the unofficial, black market rate, or what is known as the "blue rate," which is set at roughly 1 USD to 6.3 AR. This rate is due to lack of access to USD to every day citizens, combined with greater confidence in the stability of the dollar over the peso and several other factors. 

Moving beyond the complexity of the numbers this is important to me because when I make big purchases, such as renting a room for a month, my USD is being converted by the local bank into Argentine pesos at the official rate, but I am purchasing the rental at the blue rate. So a room that would cost me $350 USD ($1600 AR at the official rate) would cost me roughly $2300 pesos because everyone uses the "blue rate." This means I am actually paying $500 USD for a room I could be paying $350 for if I only had USD. 

Unfortunately it is quite difficult to get a hold of dollars here. I've heard that if I travel to Uruguay I can withdraw dollars at the official exchange rate from either a bank or an ATM. This option is tempting because at some point in the next three months I will have to leave Argentina in order to renew my visa, and Uruguay is the best option for that. 

But until I decide to go to Uruguay I will just have to put up with the everyday hassles of living internationally in a complex economic world. All in all it has been an interesting learning experience and one, in my opinion, worth having. It is an inconvenience not being able to get USD, but I continue to work with the situation I am presented with and, to tell the truth, $500 USD for a room in the nicest neighborhood in Buenos Aires? I am in no position to complain about that. 

Thanks to everyone who persevered through this blog discussing issues from the dark side of Argentina. I know it isn't the same as photos of stunning architecture, beautiful parks, and the rich and vibrant culture here, but there are valid issues here. Not everything is perfect and I hoped this blog could to some extent show that. 

I love the support from all of you and hope you continue to follow my progress. I promise more aesthetically pleasing blogs are on their way. Until then though I'll be finding my way through the busy streets of city, gazing up at the beautiful skyline, while at the same time cautiously watching my every footfall so as not to hear the dreaded squish under my shoe. 

~Kyle 

Yerba and a Day at the Museum

I consider myself a tea connoisseur. I am one of those people that buys the bulk 1 lb bags of loose leaf tea, knows the difference between Oolong and Lopsang Souchong, Matcha and Sencha, and have written and read extensively on the history of tea in both the East and the West. This said, if there was one thing I knew I had to invest in when I moved to Buenos Aires it was a mate gourd and some good mate. But how could I know I was investing in some good quality mate? I knew mate had all sorts of health benefits, a very distinct flavor, and a long history, but beyond that I was lost when it came to choosing good mate.

Unfortunately my extensive knowledge of tea didn't carry over into the world of mate, and my research into what brand of mate to buy didn't help much either. In fact it seems that preference for a specific brand really comes down to individual taste. This is why, in my tea connoisseur-like fashion, I have decided to try as many brands as possible to find the real differences, if any, between one brand and another. I am now on my second batch of yerba.

My first batch was produced by a company called Amanda and it tasted excellent to me. My second batch is from La Merced, a company that markets its mate as distinct and different from other brands. However, while it tastes great, I don't think there is a significant difference in taste between Amanda and La Merced. Both harbor the smoky, earthy, and savory taste characteristic of great mate.

This is the campo & monte variety marketed by the La Merced brand and my second batch of mate.

After taste-testing my new mate variety it was time to head over to the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes and for several hours was swept away by some of my favorite artists. A few of my favorite works on display included several critical social sketches from Goya's Los Caprichos, el Greco's San Juan Evangelista, Gustave Courbet's very impressionistic Marina, and above all the impressionist sketches of Degas. I have included images of some of my favorites below. As I could not take photographs I have drawn on the internet for these images.

El Greco's San Juan Evangelista created in 1609. 

Gustave Courbet's Marina, 1870s. 

Incendio en un Hospital by Francisco Goya. This painting reminds me very much of the sublime artwork being created in England around this time. 

One of the satirical sketches from Goya's Los Caprichos, and titled "el sueno de la razon produce monstruos." Mid-late 18th century.

After a tour of the art museum I went in search of the Torre Monumental, a tower built by British-Argentine citizens in the early 20th century to commemorate el Revolucion de Mayo, and el edificio Kavanagh, purportedly once the tallest building in South America and architecturally an art deco and modernist hybrid. I found both but am not sure whether it was worth the effort and the very long walk. I'll let you all decide.

El Torre Monumental. Construction completed in 1916. 

El Edificio Kavanagh. 

After walking several miles and being on my feet for more than three hours I decided it was time to call it a day. I didn't make it to all the museums I had wanted to see but at least I had the chance to explore a new neighborhood and had the opportunity to taste a little more of the history of this amazing city. 

Until next time, 

~Kyle... running around lost in Buenos Aires : )

A Walk in the Gardens

Buenos Aires is a city of contrasts. 18th and 19th century architecture thrives alongside the modern. A passionate and rich history, both romantic and brutal, endures in the statues and sculptures that rise majestically throughout the city. They represent a time in Argentine history when the country was once great, and yet today, with their graffiti stained concrete foundations, such statues are a reminder that this history exists no longer. With the decay of old prosperity many of the city's most beautiful areas have not been spared the disrepair and abuse wrought by an emotional past. Yet certain areas have been saved from the blight of time and to my enjoyment I stumbled across one on my way to a bookstore today.

Here is the story. I spent the last few days researching the different opportunities I would have as an English teacher in Argentina. I sent out a number of informational emails to a number of institutes but have yet to hear back (keeping my fingers crossed). Today I decided it was time to get out and do some more exploring. I heard from a very dear friend of a trendy cafe/bookstore in the neighborhood of Palermo, and as I had not been there before I decided it would be a fun adventure to go check it out. As I was walking up the Avenida Callao to the Subway I couldn't help but notice the spring flowers in bloom in la Plaza de Rodriguez Pena. Here is a photo of the trees in bloom with lavender flowers.

Walking beyond that I decided to pass by the subway and check out the Congressional Plaza on the Avenida de Mayo. On my way there I stopped in at the Communist Party Regional Headquarters (Little did my family know this was my real reason for coming to Bs. As. Viva la revolucion). I didn't actually stop in but it did stand out so I felt compelled to take a picture.

The pictures below are from the Congressional Plaza. The first is of the Argentine National Congress and the second, a very majestic building in disrepair, I think used to be a theater.

After enjoying the clogged and busy streets around Callao I decided I had had enough of the noise and decided to venture to Palermo. The first thing I noticed upon arriving in Palermo was how much less crowded it was then Recoleta. The second thing I noticed was a beautiful park. It seemed almost too beautiful, and surprisingly few people enjoying it. For a while I walked along it wondering whether I had to pay to get in. Who wouldn't want to escape the city for a few hours? I wondered. Especially to a park as beautiful as this. I finally found an entrance, learned that this was the Jardin Botanico de Carlos Thays (the botanical gardens), and was surprised to find it was free. I then spent a wonderful couple hours exploring the garden and photographing my favorite plants and trees. Signs in front of each plant and tree documented their name, latin name, and origin. There were also a number of sculptures, mostly neoclassical, dating from the mid to late 19th century. Here are some of my favorite photographs with descriptions from the gardens.

 Nolina Longifolia (Mexican Grass Tree)

 Aloe Marlothii (Aloe)

 Another shot of the beautiful lavender flowers

 Ficus Sycomorus?

 "Saturnalia" by Ernesto Biondi (19th century)

 I'm not sure who did this neoclassical sculpture but it really stood out to me.

 Flora Argentina by Emilio Andina (1875-1935)

 El Suicidio de Sagunto by Augustin Querol (1863-1909)

 Apparently this tree (ceiba speciosa or silk floss tree) was planted in 1898 by architect Carlos Thays (The man the gardens are named after). Apparently it was filled with cement to save it from a disease. Does anyone know if this is a common practice?

Furcraea Selloa var. marginata (Agave cactus). This cactus can hook you with its sharp edges if you are not careful!

After leaving the gardens I had a cafe con leche at el Pasaje de Libros, a bookstore in the heart of Palermo. I spent some time journaling, perusing the books, and reflecting on a wonderful day.

A view from inside the bookstore. I love how they still use ladders!

For yet another day I was carried by the pulsing heartbeat of Buenos Aires, and more adventures to come tomorrow and the next day and the day after. Thanks for keeping up with my travels and continue to follow for more exciting finds and unexpected surprises in the Paris of the Americas.

~Kyle