Wednesday, November 7, 2012

A Walk in the Gardens

Buenos Aires is a city of contrasts. 18th and 19th century architecture thrives alongside the modern. A passionate and rich history, both romantic and brutal, endures in the statues and sculptures that rise majestically throughout the city. They represent a time in Argentine history when the country was once great, and yet today, with their graffiti stained concrete foundations, such statues are a reminder that this history exists no longer. With the decay of old prosperity many of the city's most beautiful areas have not been spared the disrepair and abuse wrought by an emotional past. Yet certain areas have been saved from the blight of time and to my enjoyment I stumbled across one on my way to a bookstore today.

Here is the story. I spent the last few days researching the different opportunities I would have as an English teacher in Argentina. I sent out a number of informational emails to a number of institutes but have yet to hear back (keeping my fingers crossed). Today I decided it was time to get out and do some more exploring. I heard from a very dear friend of a trendy cafe/bookstore in the neighborhood of Palermo, and as I had not been there before I decided it would be a fun adventure to go check it out. As I was walking up the Avenida Callao to the Subway I couldn't help but notice the spring flowers in bloom in la Plaza de Rodriguez Pena. Here is a photo of the trees in bloom with lavender flowers.


Walking beyond that I decided to pass by the subway and check out the Congressional Plaza on the Avenida de Mayo. On my way there I stopped in at the Communist Party Regional Headquarters (Little did my family know this was my real reason for coming to Bs. As. Viva la revolucion). I didn't actually stop in but it did stand out so I felt compelled to take a picture.


The pictures below are from the Congressional Plaza. The first is of the Argentine National Congress and the second, a very majestic building in disrepair, I think used to be a theater.



After enjoying the clogged and busy streets around Callao I decided I had had enough of the noise and decided to venture to Palermo. The first thing I noticed upon arriving in Palermo was how much less crowded it was then Recoleta. The second thing I noticed was a beautiful park. It seemed almost too beautiful, and surprisingly few people enjoying it. For a while I walked along it wondering whether I had to pay to get in. Who wouldn't want to escape the city for a few hours? I wondered. Especially to a park as beautiful as this. I finally found an entrance, learned that this was the Jardin Botanico de Carlos Thays (the botanical gardens), and was surprised to find it was free. I then spent a wonderful couple hours exploring the garden and photographing my favorite plants and trees. Signs in front of each plant and tree documented their name, latin name, and origin. There were also a number of sculptures, mostly neoclassical, dating from the mid to late 19th century. Here are some of my favorite photographs with descriptions from the gardens.


 Nolina Longifolia (Mexican Grass Tree)
 Aloe Marlothii (Aloe)
 Another shot of the beautiful lavender flowers
 Ficus Sycomorus?
 "Saturnalia" by Ernesto Biondi (19th century)
 I'm not sure who did this neoclassical sculpture but it really stood out to me.
 Flora Argentina by Emilio Andina (1875-1935)
 El Suicidio de Sagunto by Augustin Querol (1863-1909)
 Apparently this tree (ceiba speciosa or silk floss tree) was planted in 1898 by architect Carlos Thays (The man the gardens are named after). Apparently it was filled with cement to save it from a disease. Does anyone know if this is a common practice?
Furcraea Selloa var. marginata (Agave cactus). This cactus can hook you with its sharp edges if you are not careful!

After leaving the gardens I had a cafe con leche at el Pasaje de Libros, a bookstore in the heart of Palermo. I spent some time journaling, perusing the books, and reflecting on a wonderful day.

A view from inside the bookstore. I love how they still use ladders!

For yet another day I was carried by the pulsing heartbeat of Buenos Aires, and more adventures to come tomorrow and the next day and the day after. Thanks for keeping up with my travels and continue to follow for more exciting finds and unexpected surprises in the Paris of the Americas.

~Kyle

6 comments:

  1. Liking the blog so far dude! Sometimes I forget the whole world doesn't look like the upper valley, travel is good for that and so are your posts. Are you like blocking off the streets for your photo shoots? BA looks like a ghost town!

    The cement filled tree reminds me of that hollow one we found hiking down Ascutney. If they filled it carefully, after the tree decayed away you would be left with an awesome casting.

    Take care,
    -Andrei

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  2. p.s. could you make leaving comments more difficult? had to make an account (I guess I have a blog now) and figure out one of those scrambled word puzzles. Maybe they have an option to allow anonymous comments?

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  3. Thanks for the posts Andrei, I'll take a few pics of BA at rush hour and that should make up for the lack of people in the rest of the pics : )

    I'll see what I can do about the comments settings. Thanks for the heads up.

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  4. Alright I think I fixed it. Now anyone can comment on the blog and provide feedback. Thanks puddles!

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  5. Hey Muff didn't you know your mom was always a closet commie! 8-)
    Seriously, I want a lavender flowered tree! Mom

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  6. They are stunning. They have been in bloom for about four days now and are amazing to run through when I'm out jogging. Although I don't know exactly what type of tree they are.

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