Wednesday, April 30, 2014

Buenos Aires Book Fair 2014

Recently, I had the opportunity to visit the Buenos Aires book fair, an annual event which began in 1975. Held for three weeks every Autumn, the BA book fair is purportedly the most important literary event in the Spanish-speaking world. This year it is housed in La Rural, a massive cultural center located in the heart of the Palermo neighborhood in Buenos Aires.

Since I had missed the book fair last year I was eager to not miss another chance to experience it. On the website they say that over 1 million people visit the fair each year, though when I arrived with a good friend on Sunday evening the place was almost empty. Perhaps the lack of people improved the experience, as we were able to browse freely in all the sections and not feel rushed about. 

When we purchased the tickets, which cost $40 pesos on the weekends and $25 pesos during the week, we were given $10 peso vouchers for discounts on books inside the fair, along with a $25 voucher which can be used beginning May 13 in any Libreria in the city. It isn't much money, but it's still worth using if you plan on purchasing a book in the fair. 


The sections were divided into regions, with different provinces offering books by authors and writing from or about their specific regions. I enjoyed looking in the Salta section, and I found a wonderful children's book called "La Hormiguita y La Gota de Agua" in the Neuquen section, the contents of which I could proudly understand. The atmosphere was quite welcoming, and the books were of high quality, though we did discover a book that was reversed from the cover, and we weren't sure if this was intentional, or perhaps some postmodernist take on the written word. 


My only regret is that I didn't purchase a book while I was there. I saw one that included myths and legends of Latin America that interested me but regrettably I didn't end up buying it. There was also a lot of open space, which I guess is necessary for when there is a large number of visitors but it seemed too much when we were there. Perhaps there could have been more exhibitions and booths. 

In all, if you are in Buenos Aires and you love books, don't hesitate to check out the Feria de Libros. The cost is minimal, the quality and variety of books is decent, and La Rural provides a welcome ambience. If you're in town, love books, but missed the fair, you can check out some of the places below for other book lover hot spots. 


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    List of bookstore locations
Feria de Libros - Parque Rivadavia - This used book fair located in Parque Rivadavia is a good place to find books in both Spanish and English for a very low cost. I don't know the hours exactly but if you go over the weekend during the day it is sure to be open. 

El Ateneo - With locations around the city, El Ateneo offers a large variety of books for readers with all interests. Perhaps the most exciting location is on Avenida Santa Fe and Callao, where they converted an old theater into a giant bookstore, replacing the seating with shelves and converting the stage to a cafe.

Cuspide Libros - The Barnes and Noble of Argentina, Cuspide Libros has bookstore locations throughout the city and offers a wide range of current and classic titles.



 Cheers

  

Tuesday, April 22, 2014

Tandil: Una epoca de queso y la venganza del chorizo (A cheese epic and the revenge of the chorizo sausage)

This past weekend I embarked with some wonderful friends on an adventurous camping expedition to the small city of Tandil, located several hundred kilometers south of Buenos Aires. I was particularly excited about this expedition because it would mark the farthest distance I've traveled outside Buenos Aires since I arrived here.

Three of us, Luis, Runi, and I, left the capital early friday morning while the other two would join us the following day. The three of us had a pleasant coffee and mate fueled drive through the countryside on our way to the epoca of queso, Tandil.  We stopped at a gas station for a rest and a quick lunch, but otherwise we drove continuously, arriving in Tandil at about 2 in the afternoon.

The view from the camp
Finding a place to camp turned out to be much easier than we thought, and a friendly local tour guide at the casa de turismo gave us a map and pointed out all the best spots. We decided to check out a place located a little outside the city, and when we arrived we were not disappointed. The land itself had been converted to a place of prayer where Catholics could pay their respects, and a little shrine to the Virgen of Lourdes had been erected within the rock. The land was also situated on a small, rocky hill, with beautiful views on all sides of the farms and fields, carrying the wind in soft, waving ripples across the landscape.

We organized where we could camp with the landowners and spent the first day just enjoying the tranquility of the countryside. It is an amazing feeling to go from being surrounded by buildings, traffic, and constant noise, to the complete calm and sounds of nature in the country. Later in the evening we gazed at the milky way and did meditation as a giant moon rose above the hill, bringing a pale blue glow to the landscape. We then attended to the fire, cooked chorizo, and told stories until late into the evening.

The next morning we picked up our other two compatriates, Zehan and Claudia, from the bus station, and we spent the day relaxing in the country, staring at the cows, listening to good music and cowbells, but most of all enjoying each other's company. Later in the afternoon we went into town. Tandil itself is a quiet and peaceful little town, unexciting for those accustomed to big cities and constant activity, but for those of us who need moments of solitude Tandil is like a calm, slow, breath of fresh air. There is little traffic, even when it is busy, and many of the roads are made of cobblestone. The pace of life is remarkably slower and not forced to a frenetic pace as is the case in the big cities.

A Catholic pilgrimmage site in Tandil
We toured a local feria and watched a talented local performer doing circus stunts, then we decided to buy more chorizo and return to the campsite for dinner. A second friendly, fire and chorizo filled evening passed us by, and we woke up on Sunday not feeling a little tired and dirty from all the camping, but just as enthusiastic to have a great final day in the country. We spent much of the day enjoying the sunny and cool autumn air, before finally deciding to pack up and go into Tandil one last time.

Zehan playing Anita by the fire
Our final day in Tandil was marked by a visit to Epoca de Queso, a cheese and sausage store and restaurant. The place also seemed to be a museum of sorts because it was full of old and fascinating artifacts. We enjoyed poking around for half an hour before sitting down to a generous picada of cheese and sausage and a cheese fondue.

Tandil is a wonderful place to visit for those wishing to escape to a slower, more relaxed place. The countryside is beautiful and the town has many cultural attractions to keep you occupied. The chorizo and cheeses are both excellent, but beware of eating too many, sometimes they'll stick to your waist and refuse to leave. : )

But in all seriousness the most important part of the trip for me, and what I am most grateful for, are the experiences shared with a loving group of friends. Indeed for me, these are the memories that will tie the trip together into a beautiful narrative upon which I can look back and smile for years to come. These are the types of experiences we live for.

In sum, visit Tandil! But beware of the hapless sausages searching for revenge, and go with a loving group of friends!

Runi, Luis, me, and Claudia
Zehan's sketch
No, it's not an album cover...
but it could be!






 

     

Tuesday, April 1, 2014

The Challenges of Expat Life: Both Big and Small

I would like to dedicate this post to the concept of challenges, specifically the challenges I have encountered with moving and relocating to a different country. After living for a year and a half as a grizzled veteran expat, I think it is time for a reflection on the challenges I faced during that period.

So often we are told of the rewards and experiences one gains by deciding to move abroad, discovering new cultures, different languages, ways of life etc... Okay, that's part of the story, not all. What is much less known, and much less talked about, are the challenges one can face by taking such a decision.

As a rule people face challenges, big and small. On several occasions I faced the small challenge of opening the refrigerator to find no food for lunch, me falta plata algunos veces : ) On another occasion my internet wouldn't work and I would be forced to call every day to have the company fix it, only to find the next day that it wouldn't work again. Or perhaps the four winter months in which I survived with only a small space heater to heat my apartment. These problems are normal occurences. Everyone hears about them, but those are the little guys, and they are comic relief when you are confronted with the big ones.

If you choose to move, travel, or work abroad, you are most likely confident, have a strong social circle back home, a supportive family, and feel you can thrive in any environment, given you are offered the opportunities and resources to succeed. This may be true for many expats, but most find a slew of circumstances they were not expecting.

One of the first major tests I encountered, though by far not the most challenging, was cultural dislocation. In most cases, moving to a foreign country involves immediate immersion into a new environment, often with a different culture and languages. This can affect expats in a variety of ways. With me, for example, I found watching American films to be a great and necessary outlet for a long time. Some adapt to this change better than others. I was quite slow to adapt, and sometimes I found it impossible to go outside because the pace, the city, and the traffic, all seemed too overwhelming.

A second, and for me much more difficult challenge, was that of developing new social relationships. I lived alone for most of my first year, which was a double-edged sword. I not only learned to take responsibility for myself and live independently, but I also learned how to escape into my apartment as a way of coping with an alien and unfamiliar world. For me it was too easy not to go out, and with that mentality social isolation easily became a normal part of my life.

As an introvert I've always needed some time alone. Though I've never known when I would need it, or for how long. Sometimes I would only need 30 minutes, other times I would need a day, perhaps two. But I've always had friends who knew my ways and would wait patiently for me at the other side of my reclusive moments.

When you move abroad there is no one waiting, no one to spend time with. You need to be outgoing and develop those connections yourself. As an introvert I discovered that when I lived in the U.S. I never needed to develop those connections on my own. They had always occurred naturally, either in school, on a team, or in some other social/recreational activity. Abroad I found myself unable to meet people or develop meaningful friendships for a very long time. I began to question whether there was something wrong with me as a person, but I didn't question why I never went out to meet people. Often I found that I needed to drag myself out to social events because the ease of which I could just hide myself away in the apartment was too enticing.

Perhaps I have some quirky and bizarre social tendencies, such as shying away from big social gatherings or preferring not to meet new people, and perhaps the majority of expats won't face this challenge. But there are some out there who might. In any case I think it's necessary to say this; when relocating to any environment, it is fundamental to go out and meet people. Developing social contacts is extremely important because in moving abroad you separate yourself from all you know, from your safety net of family and friends, from the familiarity of the home country. Creating a new social network helps to alleviate the stresses of a foreign environment in remarkable ways.

Finally you can face serious emotional challenges as well, some of which may not entirely disappear. Such challenges become apparent in any individual who exposes himself or herself to the anxieties of high stress, fast paced environments (think soldiers in combat zones, professional athletes, Wall Street executives, expats : )

I believe such emotional challenges are the most difficult, perhaps because they are the longest lasting. Emotional scars linger. Yet if I were to be asked if I would take back the expat experience, along with the mental baggage I've accumulated along the way, I would reply with a firm and resolute 'No!' This because sometimes negative experiences can lead an individual down inspired paths they would never have had the inclination to travel. For me it has led to writing.

I sometimes write for joy, the words spilling out in bursts across the page. Other times I write for necessity, as a way of coping with negative events, carving the burden of heavy thoughts out of my mind. Always though, writing is a way for me to express authenticity, a way to feel free.

While I think living abroad has been a wonderful experience, it has also posed many serious challenges, all of which have taught me to adapt, to flow with them, taking them as they come, ringing them out and hanging them up to dry. At the same time they have taught me to take advantage of the good times to understand myself better and learn from the difficulties of the past, to accept them and move forward.

Most of my posts are quite positive, conveying much of the good but very little of the bad. I think this is because there are many more positives to be shared in the experience than negatives, yet both occur, the good and the bad, and both occur frequently.

I think there is an obsession in social media these days of looking perfect. Everyone needs to give an appearance of perfection because we as a society tend to think that expressing anything negative would be seen by others as personal failure, that somehow you're not doing something right, and therefore you're not normal. Perhaps we should re-evaluate this belief. Maybe we just need to say it's okay to fail sometimes, that only through failure can we learn to face the challenges, accept them, and let them pass.  

This is why I think it important to show the darker side to living abroad. I think this post helps provide a more accurate picture of what expat life is like. In general, life is good, but sometimes shit happens, and when it does it is good for expats to know they are not alone, that others have been in the same or similar situations, and that, like all things, difficulties will come and pass away with time.

Sunday, March 23, 2014

Paradise Lost: Organic Market and Colonia


This past weekend saw a flurry of social activity which in normal circumstances is rare for me. Thursday with volleyball, friday assisting a friend to paint her new apartment, Saturday organic food market and joda in the evening, and today I ventured to Colonia Uruguay to renew my visa and relax. 
Perhaps all this activity was a reaction to the social exile I had imposed on myself earlier in the week. Sometimes I will enter periods of reflection, which usually last between one and three days, and during which time I refrain from social activity as much as possible. This is simply because during these temporary exiles to my "thought cave" socializing is something I really don't want to do, and I need to balance my system. 

 The organic market on Saturday was one of the first I've been to in BsAs. It was located in Parque Rivadavia, in the neighborhood of Caballito, which is in the geographical heart of the city. The fair was a diverse tableau of foods and products, including fresh ground coffee for purchase, hummus and baba ganoush, artisanal beer and wine, and cheeses and olive oils, all organic of course.

I went with Noelia, who I had helped the night before with the painting, and we shared wonderful conversation while eating perhaps the best pastry I have ever eaten. I recall after having finished it thinking that my life had finally been completed and nothing more could ever top the experience of eating that pastry.
We purchased the pastry from Möoi, a contemporary cafe and restaurant located in the Belgrano neighborhood of BsAs, but who also had a stall at the fair. 

There is also a used book market in Parque Rivadavia and Noelia recommended I buy a poetry book by Alfonsina Storni, which apparently will be a good way to practice my Spanish vocabulary and enjoy a little melodrama. As a back story, Storni apparently committed suicide, writing her last poem "Voy a Dormir", and submitting it to the newspaper La Nacion, immediately before walking out into the sea and drowning. Depressing I know, but I get a kick out of the melodrama : )

Here is the poem below. 


Voy a Dormir
Dientes de flores, cofia de rocío,
manos de hierbas, tú, nodriza fina,
tenme prestas las sábanas terrosas
y el edredón de musgos escardados. 

Voy a dormir, nodriza mía, acuéstame.
Ponme una lámpara a la cabecera;
una constelación; la que te guste;
todas son buenas; bájala un poquito.

Déjame sola: oyes romper los brotes...
te acuna un pie celeste desde arriba
y un pájaro te traza unos compases

para que olvides... Gracias. Ah, un encargo:
si él llama nuevamente por teléfono
le dices que no insista, que he salido...

Now in English - my poor translation : )

I Am Going to Sleep

Flower petals, capped with dew,
Handfulls of herbs, you, my nurse,
 allow me to borrow your earthy sheets
and quilt of weedy  moss

I am going to sleep, oh my nurse, lie me down.
Keep a lamp by the bedside;
a constellation; whichever you wish;
all are pleasant; lower it just a little.

Leave me alone: Listen to the breaking buds...
it cradles you in a celestial body from above
and a bird traces movements

For that which you forget... thank you. Ah, an order:
If he calls again
tell him not to insist, that I have gone...

This is a poor translation but I did my best. If anyone thinks corrections need to be made please comment.


Below are a few pictures from my trip to Colonia today. 



The pier

Fish can drive!


I go to Cafe Ganache every time I am in Colonia.

Friday, March 21, 2014

Ciudanza 2014



Hi guys,

Last weekend I had the opportunity to attend one of the many free festivals offered by the city of Bs.As. throughout the year. One of my students is always sending me useful tips on free activities coming up in the city, and this one caught my eye.

I love the chicken costume
My interest was captured by the name, Ciudanza, which is a combination of the words city and dance, and after a little research I had made up my mind to go. The dance festival took place in several parks near my house on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday of last weekend. I chose Sunday as the most suitable day and, not knowing what to expect but excited to see some dance performances, I invited a few friends to tag along.




The festival was in Parque Bartolome Mitre, which is where I used to go read several times a week when I lived in Recoleta. Now I only pass by the park when I go for runs, but it is one of my favorite parksy areas in the city because of its location on a hill, which commands a view of the parks and the distant riverfront. I've found it to be a wonderful place to sit with friends and dig for meaning. But last Sunday there was no digging involved, only dancing, at least that's what it was called.

The butcher eyes the chicken
I enjoyed the performance. On an entertainment level I would rate it a 9 out of 10, but it was quite avant garde, and perhaps individuals accustomed to more traditional dance styles would have questioned the authenticity of the use of the term "dance."



We watched two performances. In the first the dancers wore only skin colored bras and underwear, even the men, which they had covered with leaves. There was no musical cadence, only the dancers movements and the noise of the cars and dogs barking. What surprised me most was the silence, how the park was more full with people than I had ever seen it, but it was also the quietest I'd seen the park. The dance culminated in an orgiastic fruit eating frenzy as all the dancers became an interlocked and sensual mass, feeding each other apples, bananas, oranges and other fruity delicacies.

Pillow fight!


The second dance, of which I took some photos, was equally bizarre and enjoyable. The dancers were all dressed in an array of strange costumes, including a chicken outfit, an angel, the virgin Mary, a wrestler, superman, and a girl who wore underwear but no bra. They were directed by a group of three speakers, each in turn interjecting their own personal narrative to the mix. At one point an American folksy love ballad was played as all the dancers lay in the grass and pretended to make love with an individual lover.


The festival was fun, free, and a wonderful way to spend an afternoon. Check out more free cultural activities and festivals here at the Buenos Aires festivals page.






I love how the Greek guy speaks to the dancers in this section of the dance. He addresses all of them, says a few words to them, and then says te amo (I love you) to each!

Tuesday, March 11, 2014

Notorious

Hey folks,



A blur of busy weeks lie behind me and the time continues to fly by at a break-neck. I suppose that's a necessary accompaniment to the rush of city life. Since time is of the essence I'd like to devote a few moments to discussing an event I attended last weekend.

When most people think of Buenos Aires they think of tango, of dancers clad in red and black, cutting graceful angles across the dance floor. But I doubt many people, even Porteños, would think twice about jazz music, let alone know a single jazz musician. Truthfully, jazz isn't popular in Buenos Aires, but there are a few quality venues that offer alternatives to the barrage of touristic tango venues and cumbia dancehalls noticeably present throughout the city.


Much like jazz itself, the scene here is more subdued, out of the eye of the general public so-to-speak. I am no expert on jazz, my only experience of it being when I had a musical roommate in college who listened to the stuff. I love the music but have found I lack the musical background and context with which to fully appreciate it.



However for anyone looking to have a relaxing evening, with lively, energetic music, to watch musicians completely in touch with their emotions, then a trip to Notorious could be a wonderful and fun way to spend an evening with friends. 

I went with some friends to a midnight jam session last Friday. The place is a bit pricey but a $30 peso entrance fee can be put toward the purchase of drinks and food. The venue is also quite nice, with a dark, jazzy style, great accoustics, and amazingly talented artists. 


Since I have very little exposure to the world of jazz I was immediately taken up with the way in which the artists twisted and contorted their faces in deep, concentrated connections with their emotions. The jam session was a deeply positive experience and one I would recommend to anyone searching for an alternative and more contemplative nightlife scene.


Cheers,


Kyle 

Tuesday, February 11, 2014

Summertime in Jardin Botanico

The Botanical Gardens in Palermo is one of my favorite haunts. Especially in the Spring, Summer, and Fall. It's one of those places where you can almost feel as though you've escaped the city, except of course the roar of traffic never quite disappears.






Nevertheless, whenever I have a free afternoon I try to make my way up there for an hour or so. The effect nature can have on your state of mind is wonderfully remarkable. Nature seems to restore a calm, anxiety free existence, and the mix of beautiful, trees, plants, and flowers, with neoclassical sculpture, is the perfect soother after a long week.

I had planned on doing some writing in the garden, yet several minutes after I sat down the bloodthirsty mosquito swarms zeroed in on my location and I was forced to keep moving. This gave me a chance to take some photos. I know I've posted about the gardens before, but I feel they deserve extra posts now and then because of the special place they hold for me.

After milling about the park for an hour I went to meet a few friends, Noe and Ann, at Lattente, where we enjoyed cappucinos and later walked through Palermo, and I was given all the information I'll ever need to know about pin-up dresses and corsets. I guess I had always just assumed a dress was a dress, but apparently I was horribly mistaken.

It seems I was also almost mugged. After dropping Ann off at her apartment Noe and I walked to the bus stop to catch 152 back into our part of town. While waiting, a rather unseemingly guy walked up and asked me for change. I told him I didn't have any, which I don't think was actually true. I just didn't want to go rifling around in my pockets with my iPhone and $100 peso notes. It seemed wiser for me to stay away from the pockets. Well, he kept talking to me and I couldn't fully understand what he said so I just kept repeating that I didn't have any change. Well, eventually he just walked to the edge of Santa Fe and stood there awkwardly while I stood at the stop with Noe. Finally a few more people walked up to the stop and they became his next targets for spare change.

As the guy's attention was focused on other people, we decided to move to a different bus stop. As we walked away Noe told me that the guy had threatened to punch me if I didn't give him change. As I worked this through in my mind it seemed that from his point of view an act of force would be the most powerful coercive weapon, yet from my point of view it only complicated the situation and made me feel much less generous with my spare change.

I guess I am thankful nothing did happen, not only for him but because too often it seems violence is used by individuals at all levels of power to maintain and ensure control of a given situation. When one violent act is committed successfully, the situation can be perpetuated, as the perpetrator see's the previous successes and expects more to come.

I won't say I averted the violent act, because I didn't, but I can say that because I wasn't assaulted, because one less act of violence was committed, the world is just a little bit brighter.

Cheers